Today we are going to learn how to knit a cardigan. However, it is a very special cardigan, with a half fisherman’s rib knit, or beaded stitch, with an asymmetrical shawl neckline. The fit is comfortable, and the shoulder is dropped. The peculiarity is represented by the collar which can become a belt to close the cardigan.
This cardigan can be worn open or closed, over a t-shirt or over the matching top designed as an under-jacket for this cardigan you see in the photos.
Both pieces are made with Rain or Shine yarn: in merino wool, soft, superwash and therefore machine washable, with a beautiful colour range, easy to work with and with a count that makes it truly versatile.
MATERIALS
Rain or Shine yarn col. Natural White 550 g / 19.4 oz
Knitting Needles n° 5 EU / 8 US
Transparent snap button
Wool needle
GAUGE
10 cm x 10 cm / 4" x 4"
17 stitches x 17 rows
STITCHES USED
Knit
Purl
Twisted knit:
knit the stitch in the back loop of the stitch underneath.
Wisted purl:
purl the stitch in the back loop of the stitch underneath.
Twisted 1/1 rib stitch:
row 1: repeat (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for the entire row (if the number of basic stitches is odd end with knit 1 twisted)
row 2: repeat (knit 1, purl 1) for the entire row (if the number of basic stitches is odd end with knit 1). Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Increases:
it is advisable to increase with the increase crossed-out (= lift the thread between the stitch worked and the next and knit 1 stitch or twisted purl depending on how the stitch looks).
Simple stitch over:
pass 1 stitch on the right needle without working it, knit the following stitch on the left needle and with the tip of the left needle overlap the passed, or unworked, stitch.
SIZE
S (M, L)
DIMENSIONS OF THE FINISHED PIECE
Bust circumference 82 (86, 90) cm / 32.3" (34", 35.4")
Total height 50 (52, 54) cm / 19.7" (20.5", 21.3")
Height from underarm 33 (34, 35) cm / 13" (13.4", 13.8")
Neck opening 14 (15, 15) cm / 5.5" (5.9", 5.9")
Sleeve width at top 36 (38, 40) cm / 14.2" (15", 15.7")
Sleeve length from underarm 41 (40, 39) cm / 16.1" (15.7", 15.4")
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY
Intermediate
METHOD
The cardigan is worked flat and comprises 5 pieces, the back, the right and left front with part of the shawl collar on the back, and the sleeves. The remaining part of the shawl collar and the lacing straps are worked subsequently and sewn correspondingly.
With needles n° 5 EU / 8 US cast on 68 (74, 82) stitches and work 1/1 twisted rib stitch for 56 (58, 60) rows, equal to 33 (34, 35) cm / 13" (13.4 ", 13.8").
Row 1: bind off 5 (7, 9) stitches, continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch until the end of the row
row 2: work as row 1.
With rows 1 and 2 you have shaped the armholes. Now continue with 1/1 twisted rib stitch without decreasing for another 26 (28, 30) rows: you arrive at row 28 (30, 32), equal to 17 (18, 19) cm / 6.7" (7.1", 7.5") height of the armholes. Bind off.
Start from the right front and, when finished, continue to the first part of the shawl collar on the back.
With needles n° 5 EU / 8 US cast on 48 (51, 54) stitches and work 1/1 twisted rib stitch for 56 (58, 60) rows, equal to 33 (34, 35) cm / 13" (13.4 ", 13.8").
Row 1: work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch
row 2: close the first 5 (7, 9) stitches, and continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch until the end of the row.
With rows 1 and 2 you have shaped the armhole on the left side. Now continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch without decreasing for another 24 (26, 28) rows: you arrive at row 26 (28, 30).
Row 27 (29, 31): work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch
row 28 (30, 32): close the first 17 (18, 20) stitches for the shoulder, and continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch on the other 12 stitches.
The 12 remaining stitches correspond to the first part of the first half of the shawl collar on the back. Continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch on these 12 stitches for the number of rows sufficient to cover half the neckline of the back. Bind off.
Now work the left front piece.
With needles n° 5 EU / 8 US cast on 39 (43, 46) stitches and work 1/1 twisted rib stitch for 56 (58, 60) rows, equal to 33 (34, 35) cm / 13" (13.4 ", 13.8").
Row 1: close the first 5 (7, 9) stitches, and continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch until the end of the row
row 2: work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch.
With rows 1 and 2 you have shaped the armhole on the right side. Now continue with 1/1 twisted rib stitch without decreasing for another 26 (28, 30) rows: you arrive at row 28 (30, 32), equal to 17 (18, 19) cm / 6.7" (7.1", 7.5") armhole height.
Row 29 (31, 33): close the first 17 (18, 20) stitches for the shoulder, and continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch on the other 12 stitches.
The 12 remaining stitches correspond to the first part of the second half of the shawl collar on the back. Continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch on these 12 stitches for the number of rows sufficient to cover half the neckline of the back. Close the job.
Start from the right sleeve.
With needles n° 5 EU / 8 US cast on 44 (46, 48) stitches and work 6 rows in twisted 1/1 rib stitch.
Size S
Row 7: 1 twisted 1/1 rib stitch, 1 increase, continue with 1/1 twisted rib stitch until the last stitch, 1 increase, 1 twisted 1/1 rib stitch
rows from 8 to 14: work in twisted 1/1 rib stitch.
Rows 7 to 14 set the increases, and repeat them 7 more times (you arrive at row 70 with 60 stitches on the needle).
Size M
Row 7: 1 twisted 1/1 rib stitch, 1 increase, continue with 1/1 twisted rib stitch until the last stitch, 1 increase, 1 twisted 1/1 rib stitch
rows 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12: work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch
row 13: work as row 7
rows from 14 to 20: work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch.
Rows from 7 to 20 set the increases, repeat them 3 more times, then work 1 more time from row 7 to row 12 (you arrive at row 68 with 64 stitches on the needle).
Size L
Row 7: 1 twisted 1/1 rib stitch, 1 increase, continue with 1/1 twisted rib stitch until the last stitch, 1 increase, 1 twisted 1/1 rib stitch
rows 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12: work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch.
Rows 7 to 14 set the increases, and repeat them 9 more times (you arrive at row 66 with 68 stitches on the needle).
For all sizes
Now start decreasing for the sleeve rounding: for simplicity, the row count starts again from 1 for all sizes.
Row 1: close the first 3 stitches, continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch until the end of the row
row 2: work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch
row 3: close the first 2 stitches, continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch until the last 3 stitches, and knit 3 stitches together on the last 3 stitches
row 4: repeat row 3
rows 5 to 10: repeat rows 3 and 4 3 more times
row 11: work 1 simple stitch over on the first 2 stitches, continue with twisted 1/1 rib stitch until the last 2 stitches
row 12: work in 1/1 twisted rib stitch.
Rows 11 and 12 set the decreases of 1 stitch for the sleeve rounding, and repeat them another 5 (6, 7) times: you arrive at row 22 (24, 26) with 10 stitches on the needle, equal to 13 (14, 15) cm / 5.1" (5.5", 6") height of the cap. Bind off.
With needles n° 5 EU / 8 US cast on 13 stitches and work 1/1 twisted rib stitch for 60 rows, equal to 35 cm / 13.8". Work 1/1 twisted rib stitch for the second part of the shawl, for the right side and half back until you reach the size necessary to cover the length from half right front to half the neckline on the back.
Bind off.
With needles n° 5 EU / 8 US cast on 23 stitches and work with 1/1 twisted rib stitch until you reach the size necessary to cover the length from half the left front to half the neckline on the back.
Bind off.
With needles n° 5 EU / 8 US cast on 13 stitches and work 1/1 twisted rib stitch for 60 rows, equal to 35 cm / 13.8".
Bind off.
For an invisible seam, sew with an invisible seam stitch.
Sew the shoulders. Join the ends of the shawl collar parts of the back worked together with the front pieces. Now sew these newly joined parts around the back of the neckline.
Take the fastening band with the second part of the shawl collar on the right side, place it with the wrong side up, skip the first 35 cm / 13.8" corresponding to the right fastening band and sew it along the corresponding edge, reaching up to the centre of the back.
In the same way, take the second part of the shawl collar on the left side, place it with the wrong side up and sew it along the corresponding edge, reaching again up to the centre of the back.
Now also join these two parts to the centre of the back: the collar is finished and will be turned right side when you wear the cardigan. Sew the rounding of the sleeves around the respective armholes, centring them on the shoulder seam, then close the underarms and sides, leaving the first 5 cm / 2" from the bottom unstitched to the underarms and the first 7 cm / 2.7" from the bottom for the hips to create the side slits.
Sew the left side fastening strap onto the respective side, approximately 10 cm / 4" from the underarm hole. Finally, attach the snap button at the end of the shawl collar on the front pieces, one part on the wrong side of the right front piece and one part on the right of the left front.
If you enjoyed reading about and knitting this cardigan, then you will also enjoy reading the entire section dedicated to knitting tutorials.
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